This selection is designed as a training palette for anyone who wants to learn to recognize the main olfactory families and understand the role of raw materials within a formula.
Citrus and aromatics
Bergamot Ess. FRC, Lemon NatPro and Petitgrain Paraguay make it possible to compare three different ways of building freshness: bergamot's floral brightness, lemon's more direct citrus profile, and petitgrain's green-aromatic character. Lavandin Grosso introduces the aromatic, herbal and camphoraceous register typical of the lavender family.
Florals and diffusion
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol and Geraniol are two fundamental reference materials for understanding the construction of rose and classic floral structures. Linalool Coeur adds a floral, citrus and slightly woody facet, while Hedione is particularly useful for observing how a raw material can increase brightness, space and diffusion without necessarily dominating the composition.
Green
Cis-3-Hexenol is an essential reference for studying freshly crushed leaf, grass and fresh vegetation notes. It is a highly characteristic material: to understand its behavior more clearly, it is useful to evaluate it individually and also at strong dilution.
Woods, amber and musks
ISO E SUPER® is useful for studying woody volume, softness and diffusion; Haitian Vetiver shows the complexity of a natural raw material, with earthy, dry, green and smoky facets. AMBROX® SUPER is useful for exploring an amber, woody and persistent register, while Ethylene Brassylate introduces the role of musks in roundness, continuity and persistence.
Sweetness and spices
Vanillin and Eugenol complete the palette with two highly recognizable materials: the first is useful for studying vanilla-like and balsamic sweetness, while the second introduces the warm, spicy and phenolic character of clove.
How to study the palette
Start by evaluating each raw material individually on a blotter, noting the initial impression, evolution over time, intensity, diffusion and persistence. Then create small accords of 2–4 components to observe how balance, volume and character change. More intense or crystalline materials are often easier to understand when they are also evaluated in dilution.
