La Profumiera di Venezia by Irina Vaganova
ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE – white musk note, soft, round and persistent
ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE – white musk note, soft, round and persistent
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Macrocyclic lactone. Viscous, nearly colorless liquid. It solidifies when cold and melts at about -5°C.
Insoluble in water, soluble in alcohol and oils. Sparingly soluble in propylene glycol.
Sweet-musky, slightly oily scent, exceptionally persistent.
This cyclic ether was introduced into perfumery in 1933 and over time became one of the most important musk chemicals for perfumers. After many years of use as the main chemical and very high costs, it found its way onto the shelves of almost every perfumery store.
It is widely used in perfumery as an enhancer of sweet, floral notes. One of the most famous fragrances contains an unusually high amount of this complex ether, which contains undecanolide. This combination gives the perfume a long-lasting and unusual scent. So long-lasting, in fact, that some people dislike it for this very reason.
Ethylene brasyllate has a noticeable effect, usually at a concentration of less than 1% in the fragrance base or oil. With normal use, the concentration ranges from 0.5% to 3.0%. It is stable in soap and does not cause discoloration.
It has been suggested to use this substance in aromatic compositions as a softening and "finishing" component.
Very adherent, with good substantivity. It is used to add a soft, sensual, and silky note and to create a trail. It is used in all types of accords and fragrances. It stands out from other scents with a hint of vanilla. It is very stable in alcoholic and functional bases.
Ethylene brasyllate (macrocyclic lactone) is one of the oldest white musks, created by Dupont, when its potential was quickly noticed by André Fraysse, who used it for his luxury fragrance Arpège for Lanvin, just as the company was rapidly expanding industrially.
Ethylene brasillate became extremely popular due to its ease of use (being a liquid) and the fact that it was significantly cheaper than other non-nitrated musks in the early 20th century, such as Muscone, Civetone (Ruzicka, 1926) and Exaltolide® (1930).
This musk is very versatile and can be used in virtually any fragrance, but it's especially well-suited to those that need a soft vanilla note in the trail. It also has nuances of amber seed, fruit, and a light powderiness. It's definitely a must-have musk.
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