La Profumiera di Venezia by Irina Vaganova
AMBROX® SUPER 909158 Firmenich – amber, musky and woody
AMBROX® SUPER 909158 Firmenich – amber, musky and woody
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AMBROX® SUPER 909158 Firmenich
AMBROX® SUPER is one of the most recognizable amber signatures in modern perfumery. Its character combines the elegance of ambergris with musky and woody nuances, but its strength is not only olfactory: it is a material capable of running through a composition from top to base and giving it a more persistent, luminous and sensual structure.
Olfactory profile
Amber, musky, woody, mineral and slightly animalic. Compared with many modern woody-amber materials, its effect is less dry and closer to the idea of natural ambergris, with a clean but not sterile sensation.
In formula
AMBROX® SUPER can function simultaneously as a signature, fixative and structural material. In amber and woody accords it increases depth and persistence; in musks it adds warmth and a mineral nuance; in marine accords it can reinforce a salty, dry-skin impression; in floral and citrus structures, when used precisely, it provides greater continuity without necessarily making the composition heavy.
One of its most interesting qualities is diffusion: although perceived as a heart/base material, it can contribute to the presence of the fragrance from the early stages. This continuity makes it particularly useful in modern structures where the base should not appear only at the end but support the entire development.
How to work with it
The material comes in crystalline form. It can be used neat when the formula and weighing method allow, or prepared in solution to facilitate trials and micro-dosing. Dissolution may require time, stirring and moderate warming; direct heat sources are best avoided.
To really understand its effect, compare the same formula with and without AMBROX® SUPER: the difference often consists not only in a more evident amber note, but also in greater persistence, volume and cohesion.
AMBROX® SUPER or CETALOX®?
dsm-firmenich describes AMBROX® SUPER as more natural, more animalic and closer to ambergris, while CETALOX® tends toward a drier, woodier profile. The choice therefore depends on the type of amber base you want to build, not simply on power.
When to choose it
It is particularly suitable when a composition needs greater persistence and diffusion, when a contemporary mineral-amber signature is desired, or when the base should remain present and recognizable without becoming heavy or resinous.
To compare amber and woody structures: also evaluate ISO E SUPER® TOCO IFF, TIMBERSILK™ IFF and the selection of fixatives for perfumery.
Technical data
- Manufacturer
- dsm-firmenich / Firmenich
- Trade name
- AMBROX® SUPER 909158
- CAS
- 6790-58-5
- Chemical name
- (3aR,5aS,9aS,9bR)-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyl-2,4,5,5a,7,8,9,9b-octahydro-1H-benzo[e][1]benzofuran
- Synonyms
- Ambrox® Super, (-)-Ambroxide, Ambroxide, Ambroxan, (-)-Ambrox
- Molecular formula
- C16H28O
- Physical state
- Polvere cristallina
- Material type
- Aroma chemical biotecnologico; diterpenoide ambrato
- Method / process
- Biotecnologia bianca (white biotechnology)
- Olfactory family
- Amber, Musky
- Olfactory notes
- base notes, fixative
- Concentration
- 100%
- Function in formula
- fissazione, diffusione, persistenza, struttura ambrata
IFRA Category 4: nessuna restrizione (IFRA 51)
The value refers to the maximum concentration in the finished product, not to the percentage of the raw material in the fragrance concentrate.
