La Profumiera di Venezia by Irina Vaganova
ISO BUTYL QUINOLINE 54 SYMRISE – leathery, green and earthy note with a hint of suede, root and animal musk
ISO BUTYL QUINOLINE 54 SYMRISE – leathery, green and earthy note with a hint of suede, root and animal musk
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A classic leather ingredient, also useful in animalistic bases and in the recreation of oud, as well as to intensify the effect of oakmoss and its substitutes. Very stable and effective as a fixative. It is used to obtain chypre and leather notes, to impart character and power. It lends character to floral accords when added in small quantities. It was first used in 1922 in Caron's Nuit de Noel perfume. It is also present in Cuir de Russie and Mousse de Saxe. It is used in concentrations of 0.01% to 2%. A woody-musky, slightly spicy aroma, it is somewhat reminiscent of oakmoss (some types of extracts), cardamom (with earthy accents), and, when highly diluted, resembles amber. Small amounts are frequently used in perfume compositions along with robust fixatives such as vetiver, patchouli, macro-cyclic musk, oakmoss, etc.
If applied incorrectly, the quinoline scent will emerge with undesirable force after the perfume dries. The effective concentration can be as low as 0.1% of the total amount of the perfume oil. The effect is more of a "mood lift" than a true addition to the aroma, and the quinoline scent shouldn't be part of the perfume, but should instead emerge as a subtle note of liveliness and strength.
It is sometimes used in tobacco aromatic compositions. Leather, castoreum, earth, tobacco, oakmoss, vetiver. Leathery, green, woody, powerful, more subtle, aromatic, and tobacco-like, with a less dry and earthy character than secondary butyl quinoline. It is used in chypre, fougère, and tobacco accords.
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