La Profumiera di Venezia by Irina Vaganova
Ambroxan Crystal (Kao) – Synthetic Ambergris Crystals
Ambroxan Crystal (Kao) – Synthetic Ambergris Crystals
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Ambroxan Crystal (Kao)
Ambroxan Crystal belongs to the family of amber materials inspired by the profile of ambergris. Its character is warm, mineral, woody and slightly animalic, with very high persistence and a remarkable ability to give continuity and presence to the base of a composition.
Olfactory profile
Amber, woody, mineral, warm and clean, with a discreet animalic nuance. The impression can recall dry skin, pale wood and an abstract ambergris effect rather than a resinous or sweet amber accord.
In formula
Ambroxan works well as a structural material: it increases persistence, volume and cohesion and can make the base more present without weighing it down. In woody and amber compositions it adds depth; in musks it brings warmth; in marine and mineral accords it can reinforce a salty, dry-skin effect; in transparent florals it helps create continuity and persistence.
Its effect is often more evident in the drydown than in the immediate evaluation of the neat material. For this reason, it is useful to observe it over time and compare identical formulas with and without Ambroxan.
How to work with it
It comes in crystalline form. For micro-dosing and comparative trials, it can be convenient to prepare a working solution in ethanol or another solvent compatible with the formula. Dissolution requires patience and can be aided by stirring and moderate warming, avoiding direct heat sources.
If a highly concentrated solution is cooled, crystals may appear: this is not necessarily a defect of the material, but a behavior to consider when preparing and storing solutions.
Ambroxan, AMBROX® SUPER and related materials
Commercial materials in the ambroxide family share a similar olfactory territory but can differ in isomeric purity, production process and sensory nuances. It is therefore preferable to evaluate them directly in the same base rather than assuming they are automatically 100% interchangeable.
When to choose it
It is particularly useful when a persistent mineral-amber base is needed, when a composition requires greater longevity and diffusion, or when you want to build a modern dry-skin, wood and ambergris effect without using a sweet or resinous amber base.
Technical data
- Manufacturer
- Kao Corporation
- Trade name
- AMBROXAN®
- CAS
- 6790-58-5
- Chemical name
- (3aR,5aS,9aS,9bR)-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyl-2,4,5,5a,7,8,9,9b-octahydro-1H-benzo[e][1]benzofuran
- Synonyms
- AMBROXAN®, Ambroxan, (-)-Ambroxide, Ambroxide, (-)-Ambrox
- Molecular formula
- C16H28O
- Physical state
- Massa cristallina / scaglie bianche; p.f. circa 67–77 °C
- Material type
- Aroma chemical di derivazione naturale; ambroxide diterpenico
- Method / process
- Sintesi da sclareolo ottenuto da Salvia sclarea (Kao)
- Olfactory family
- Musk
- Olfactory notes
- base notes
IFRA Category 4: nessuna restrizione (IFRA 51)
The value refers to the maximum concentration in the finished product, not to the percentage of the raw material in the fragrance concentrate.
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