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La Profumiera di Venezia by Irina Vaganova

Oak moss absolute low atranol - chloroatranol ROBERTET

Oak moss absolute low atranol - chloroatranol ROBERTET

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Oakmoss Absolute Low Atranol‑Chloroatranol – The Balkans

Supplier : Robertet

CAS number: 90028-68-5
Origin of raw material : Lichens collected on oak trunks in the Balkans
Variety : Evernia prunastri L. – oakmoss
Extract : absolute with low atranol and chloroatranol content (IFRA‑compliant)
Extraction method : solvent (hexane-free)

Olfactory profile

  • Intense accord : musky, earthy and green notes, with marine nuances of mushrooms and damp earth
  • Deep and tenacious character : persistent for weeks on test strips, ideal as a significant base in perfumes

Applications in perfumery

  • Precious base note : support for chypre, fougère, woody, amber accords
  • Natural fixative : works in synergy with patchouli, labdanum, citrus fruits and lavender to harmonise the composition

Technical parameters & compliance

  • IFRA-compliant : atranol/chloroatranol content <100 ppm → compatible with international standards (Product compliant with IFRA standards for limited use: atranol/chloroatranol content <100 ppm; usable within permitted concentrations (e.g. 0.1% in eau de parfum)).
  • Recommended use : up to 0.1% in the finished product (Category 4 – eau de parfum)
  • Shelf life and consistency : thick paste, dark brown to deep green in color; high viscosity → requires gentle heating for mixing
  • Creative versatility : excellent for building traditional structures (fougère, chypre) or for giving depth to modern compositions
  • Stability and performance : high tenacity (>400 h on paper)

Updated usage recommendations

  • Typical dosages : 0.5–2% as a base note or according to its role in the formula.
  • Suggested mixing :
    heat slightly (up to 35–40 °C) and use suitable vehicles such as DPG or benzyl benzoate to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
    Maceration in ethanol (96–100%) followed by filtration for use in alcohol-based perfumes is also possible.
  • Avoid poorly miscible solvents , such as triacetin, which do not guarantee good solubility of dense and resinous absolutes.
  • Ideal pairings : bergamot, lavender, patchouli, labdanum, vetiver, white musk.
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