CASHMERAN® IFF – woody, musky and amber note with nuances of leather and soft spices

CAS 33704-61-9. Diffused, musky, woody, spicy with a strong floral undertone. A powdery, velvety accent. Long-lasting. Perfumed, with notes of apple, earthy, woody, red fruits, and pine.
An unusual "polycyclic musky" that lends itself perfectly to a variety of uses: from floral accords to dark woody and oriental ones.
A musky, spicy, diffused scent with a strong floral undertone. A powdery, velvety accent. Lingering. Perfumed, with notes of apple, earth, wood, red fruits, and pine.
In a hard copy of the IFF compendium, where this material is classified as ambrosial and not primarily musky, it is stated that it was first developed after gas chromatographic analysis of a mixture of another material, and that improvements in the manufacturing process have greatly increased its potential uses. It pairs well with Timbersilk, Citronellol, Iso Eugenol, and Delta Damascone, and is useful for creating spicy floral notes of clove, ambrosial musky notes, and oriental and woody accords.
Cashmeran is a unique synthetic fragrance that perfectly combines a floral-fruity, musky scent with woody and resinous notes. High levels of cashmeran, around 25%, were used by Maurice Russel in "Dans Tes Bras" (Frédéric Malle, 2008) and by Alessandro Gualtieri in "Duro" (Nasomatto, 2007). Cashmeran and cefalis are also key ingredients in trendy oud/agarwood accords. Cashmeran particularly connects the dark woody side with the animalic, musky side of oud, with its resinous and woody notes and its unique floral-fruity, musky undertone.
Arcadi Bua Camps, writing in 1985, classifies Cashmeran as a floral scent, while acknowledging the complexity of placing this unique material in a category. He says it is a strong, floral, musky product, with great diffusion and personality, which pairs very well with green grass, as well as with derivatives of cis-3-hexenol, tripthalal, and blends such as ambrosial, floral, leathery, and woody. It pairs particularly well with allelamyl glycolate, which it enhances, creating brightness. He also notes that it is interesting to note Cashmeran's effects with subtle, fruity substances, edillevulinate and allicapronate, as well as blends of methylnicotinate, myrrh resinoids, and mate absolute.
Cashmeran is usually found in a solid state at room temperature, and although its melting point is generally stated as 27 degrees Celsius, in practice, melting it requires much more thermal energy than one might expect. It can be supplied in a 50% IPM concentration.
It is stable in perfumery in various functional bases.
Alpha-irone and Isoraldeine are constitutional isomers of Cashmeran, but they have a violet and iris scent, which is different from that of Cashmeran.