La Profumiera di Venezia by Irina Vaganova
AMBRETTOLIDE IFF – warm, velvety and one of the most natural white musk notes
AMBRETTOLIDE IFF – warm, velvety and one of the most natural white musk notes
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CAS 28645-51-4. Macrocyclic lactone, musk, ambrette, fruity-rosoliose. Bright and excellent fixative.
An extremely subtle macrocyclic musk with great diffusion and potency, it is a close analogue of the musk found naturally in ambrette seed oil (although, despite many claims, it is not identical to this musk) and is one of the most effective. In small amounts, it enhances other ingredients and is particularly effective when combined with Exaltolide and Ethynobrasylate. A classic musk note with a subtle fruity base, often compared to red berries. It exceptionally elevates the top note of the perfume.
It adds sensual and carnal nuances. It enhances the top notes of floral-purple perfumes. It gives great strength to floral notes. It is used in fine perfumes due to its high price. Among musks, it is comparable to Helvetolide and Velvione, due to its white floral nuance. Stable everywhere, except in acidic detergents, antiperspirants, and bleaches.
Almost everyone sells this musk as Ambrettolide (usually produced by IFF, Givaudan, or Symrise, although it is also produced by other manufacturers), but it would be more accurate to call it Iso-Ambrettolide. The musk found in ambrette seeds is slightly different and has the CAS number 7779-50-2, which adds to the confusion, which is often, and incorrectly, applied to this musk by sellers who fail to notice the difference.
Colorless, slightly viscous oil, with an intense and extremely persistent, sweet, floral-musky scent.
Soluble in alcohol and oils.
This chemical is one of the best fixatives in its category, acting synergistically and enhancing perfumery and aromas. At the same time, it increases the diffusion of the perfumes in which it is contained. Its fixative effect is easily recognized by the fact that 0.01% ambrettolide solutions (or even lower) in slightly diluted alcohol have virtually no alcohol odor, but only a faint, sweet, and pleasant floral-musky lactone scent. Ambrettolide is particularly useful in delicately floral, slightly animalic, or amber-like perfumes.
It is widely used—in extremely low concentrations—as a modifier-mixer in food flavorings, especially in alcoholic beverages. Its effect is readily noticeable at concentrations below 0.01 parts per million (less than 1 part per hundred million of the finished product). Concentrations of up to 0.7 parts per million have been reported in some consumer products, fruit flavorings, etc.
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