La Profumiera di Venezia by Irina Vaganova
STYRALLYLE ACETATE – floral, green and fruity note with hints of lilac and pear
STYRALLYLE ACETATE – floral, green and fruity note with hints of lilac and pear
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One of the classic metallic-green notes, it's widely used, despite its rather unpleasant odor in its pure form. In addition to its classic use in gardenia and other floral compositions, it's useful to add a dry, fresh, and fruity top note to many other compositions. This material was famously used in L'Air du Temps to create a minimalist sketch of gardenia in the fragrance's central floral bouquet, where it also works in harmony with traces of C11 undecylenic aldehyde (as in many other famous fragrances, including Miss Dior and Cabochard), connecting the top and heart notes.
Jean Carles uses at least 4% of this material in Ma Griffe, where it is again used together with aliphatic aldehydes.
It is used in rhubarb, gardenia, and tuberose notes. It is widely used in both women's and men's perfumery for a modern effect and drier top notes. It adds a spicier note, resembling a rhubafuran-type molecule and a more sulfurous ingredient like rhubofix.
It is a key ingredient in modern perfumery, adding a fruity, green and spicy effect in the top notes.
Colorless liquid. May discolor over time (chromophoric molecule).
Practically insoluble in water, soluble in alcohol and oils.
Strong and penetrating, green-floral aroma, which becomes more fruity when diluted, with a moderate to low persistence.
Specific flavor: sour-menthol, fruity-berry when diluted to less than 20 parts per million.
This ester is widely used in perfumery and is part of the top notes of several very popular and successful fragrances.
It is usually associated with the gardenia plant, but its scent is characteristic only of certain stages of gardenia flower maturity and only of certain varieties. However, the ester is used in many types of fragrances, primarily those with fruity and green notes, and plays an important role in top note complexes, including oakmoss, galbanum, alilionone, citrus oils, and so on. Despite its apparent harshness, it can be used at relatively high concentrations, often exceeding 2 or 3%. With the presence of benzyl acetate and citrus oils, the concentration of the main ester can be even higher. Caution should be exercised when assessing the impact of this substance too quickly, as it tends to be very visibly "absorbed" into the perfume composition after 24 hours, and often even after a few days or more.
In smaller quantities, it is used in compositions of lilac, hyacinth, tuberose, lily of the valley, etc.
The ester is also widely used in food flavoring compositions, particularly in "spicy" fruit varieties such as pineapple, apricot, gooseberry, apple, as well as in compositions of plum, peach, and many berry or fruit-berry combinations.
The concentration in the finished product varies from 1 to 30 parts per million.
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