La Profumiera di Venezia by Irina Vaganova
EXALTOLIDE® TOTAL 935985 Firmenich – musky note (Musky macrocyclic musk note)
EXALTOLIDE® TOTAL 935985 Firmenich – musky note (Musky macrocyclic musk note)
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Olfactory profile and description:
- Aromatic profile: Extremely fine, elegant, and natural musk. Characterized by powdery, soft, slightly animalic, and sweet-green notes (“soft, powdery, sweet, animal”).
- Contribution to the fragrance: Gives depth, roundness and synergy to the bouquet; sensual effect on the skin
- Duration: It lasts over 400 hours on the scent strip and maintains a high persistence.
Technical specifications:
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CAS / IUPAC Name: 106‑02‑5 / Oxacyclohexadecan‑2‑one (Pentadecalactone)
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Molecular formula / Molar weight: C₁₅H₂₈O₂, ~240 g/mol
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Vapor pressure: ~0.00003 Pa at 20 °C
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Flash point: ~180 °C
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Biodegradability and sustainability: Product obtained with green and biodegradable chemistry
Applications and dosage:
Main use: Base note / sensory fixative for perfumes, cosmetics, detergents, candles .
Recommended levels:
- Perfumery: 0.5–5% (often <1%) .
- Cosmetics & detergents: average/maximum values between ~0.00018–0.073% (fragrances), ~0.00009–0.058% (shower gels, soaps), etc.
Effect on the skin: Enhances the skin's sensuality, improves the usability of the perfume
Historical and cosmetic context:
History: Derived from pentadecalactone, a natural macrolide isolated in 1927; Firmenich has produced it as Exaltolide® since 1930.
Perfumer's Reference: Defined as one of the “cleanest” synthetic musks, with minimal side notes
Benefits of using:
- Natural musk with a powdery roundness and clean animalic nuances.
- Excellent fixative at low concentrations, guarantees roundness and texture.
- High persistence and versatility in many formulas (oriental, woody, skin scents).
- Produced by Firmenich.
Main features:
- Profile: musky, dusty, delicately animalic, warm
- Use: base note and fixative
- Persistence: >400 h on mouillette
- Formula: C₁₅H₂₈O₂, CAS 106‑02‑5
- Solubility: in oils and alcohols
- Typical dosage: 0.5–5% in perfumes, traces in cosmetics/detergents
- Technologies: green chemistry, biodegradable, Kosher/Halal/FEMA/IFRA/REACH certifications
Ideal for:
Fine perfumes, aromatic bases, body products, cleansers, refined candles.
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